On theorigin of the term bistro there are many uncertainties. The word entered French usage at the beginning of the 19th century. According to an imaginative interpretation, during the Russian presence in Paris after the defeat of Napoleon, the ban on alcohol for Cossack officers provoked the peremptory request to be served early so as not to be surprised.
In Russian, the word “soon” sounds like “bistro”, later deformed into bistro to indicate a place where the offer of wine is combined with quick cuisine. For others, the term comes from “bistroquet”, referring to those who worked as assistants to innkeepers or wine producers. The formula established itself immediately, also forcefully entering Parisian intellectual life and in the form of a wine bar.
Many famous chefs have also used this more agile formula for their cuisine: like Massimo Bottura, who opened the Franceschetta bistro in Modena, alongside the flagship, the Francescana. In Rome, the nightlife around the meat and cheese counter at Roscioli, or the gourmet “rolls” (and solid dishes like meatballs) at Casa Bleve remain a great classic.
Soups and platters of cured meats and cheeses are the winning features of Cul de Sac, the noble father of Roman bistros. Genoese focaccias, signature products, different treats every day, the strong point of Sogno Autarchico, while (only at 12) the starred Giulio Terrinoni in his restaurant offers delicious seafood tapas.
Gianni Ruggiero, patron of the Autarchic Dream, loves to include quotes from his Genoa among the proposals of the day. In this case the protagonist is a classic like cod.
